About Trastevere
The name comes from the Latin trans Tiberim, across the Tiber, and the neighborhood still feels like a place apart: crooked cobbled streets, old houses and little squares where restaurant tables spill onto the sidewalk. At its heart is Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of Rome's oldest churches, facing a square with a fountain that turns into the neighborhood's living room at night.
Before noon, climb the Janiculum, the hill just above. A cannon fires to mark the hour, a tradition revived in 1959, and the view takes in domes and bell towers across the whole center. Then head back down and choose your restaurant by smell.
